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Treacherous traffic... We've cycled a mere two kilometres in Uganda when the boda boda's (bicycle-taxis) and other cyclists start pursuing us. In Kenya this happened quite often, so we're kind of used to it. They try to keep up with us and do their utmost best to overtake us. When this, with a proud expression on their faces, is finally accomplished they unintentionally block our way. Cyclists prefer to ride as far left on the road as possible or even on the verge of the road. Their fear of cars and trucks in immense. They're right to be afraid, but by blocking our way so often they force us to break heavily when they push our frontwheels of the road. It's frustrating that most of the times they turn around as soon as they have overtaken us, because they don't want to go the same direction we do.
Riding on the left side of the
road, a heritage of the English colonial rule in these countries, we're
used to it by now. Well, not completely. Every time we hit the road
again after a break we really have to think: our first impulse is to
ride on the right side. It's even more difficult when we're on foot:
normally we look to the left and then the right before crossing the
road. Both of us have saved the other from hooting cars and shrieking
brakes several times. Yes, forty years of hospitalisation isn't washed
away in a few months. Then again, when we're walking on the sidewalk
(or something like it) we have to slalom to avoid all the other people
who don't seem to concern themselves with the oncoming traffic. Is our
sensibility so high or theirs so low?
Jinja Between the border and our first destination, Jinja, there are a lot of trucks on the road. Hundreds of trucks loaded to the maximum and more driving to Rwanda and Congo. Luckily for us most truckdrivers did earn their licences themselves. They drive very well and are the most reliant roadusers we know. After Busova, a tiny village on
the road to Jinja, the road shows a long faint curve downhill. While
we cycle there we 're being overtaken by a mad truckdriver who drives
at least 120 kilometres per hour. We dive into the verge of the road
to save our skins. The road is narrow, full of potholes and absolutely
not suited for high speed. The insane truck rumbles swaying through
the potholes while the load moves about strangely. To our surprise it
actually manages to take the bend, doesn't fly out of it. A few kilometres
further, we've forgotten about the madman, we encounter a police-barrier.
Out of nowhere we see men, women and children come running with jerrycans.
We are allowed to cycle past the barrier and descend to one of Uganda's
wetlands (marsh-areas). In a bend to the right we see fat black skid
marks from the road into the depth to the left verge. Behind it, some
six metres down in the marsh, we see our truck. Shrubs and thicket are
completely flattened on his destructive way down. The cabin of the truck
drove itself deep in the wet earth. We don't have a lot of illusions
about the driver's fate. In the meantime police and villagers are busy
filling their jerrycans with the petrol that's so expensive in this
country. Treacherous, or traffic?
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