Before attempting to reach Lake Albert, we visit the metropolis of Hoima
and Masindi. Masindi is the largest 'town' in the midwest of Uganda.
Hoima is a bit smaller. In these towns we hope to be able to arrange
some things, like e-mail, shopping, change money, exchange books and
buy new chain-blades. The latter is maybe asking too much in Central
Africa, but should be possible in view of all the mountainbikes we see
here.
At one of the many bicycle-shops in Hoima we manage to buy a triple-chain-blade,
even if it takes some trouble.
"How much is the triple chain
blade in Uganda-shillings?"
"Mmmmmhh "
It's not completely clear to us what amount of money is indicated with
this sound, so Peter rephrases his question: "Can you tell me what
I need to pay for that?", while pointing clearly at the article
wanted by him.
"Eeeehh, it's for sale!"
"Yes, I see, and do you want money for it?"
"Eeeehh."
"How much?"
"Yes, it will cost you money."
It's not very clear to us where this conversation will lead, but moments
later we find out that we will have to pay 15.000 shillings to call
the thing ours. That's not very much at Dutch standards, about seven
euro. Since none of the many bicycle repair shops possess the necessary
equipment to fit the already bought article on Peter's bicycle we decide
to take it with us to Masindi, a 'town' supposedly somewhat bigger than
Hoima.
Masindi turns out to be, just like Hoima, no bigger than the smallest
villages in the Netherlands. Using the internet isn't possible, just
like changing money and exchanging books. Like in Hoima, there are bicycle
repair shops everywhere you look, which do their business mainly on
the street. At the best equipped shop Peter asks the seven tinkering
men for the right tools: "Do you have tools to change these chain
blades?"
Six of the seven men drop their tools, stand around the bicycles and
look at it in awe.
The necessary tools are present, but are in a locked wooden box, which
key is taking breakfast with tinkerer number eight. We wait for half
an hour, then one of the men decides to break open the box: a sturdy
bunch of hexagonal wrenches appears. There is no pulley, so the crank-set
is carefully tapped of the bicycle. Peter's disappointment is big when
the new set doesn't fit. Because it's deeper, the smallest blade touches
the frame. We have no other choice then leaving the new set behind;
we exchange it for a file, with which Peter files the burrs of the chain
blades and re-models the teeth as far as possible. Hopefully they'll
last a little bit longer.
The unmetalled road from Masindi to our special goal Kibiro
leads through an almost un-Ugandan dry landscape. At least, the last
fifty kilometres. Which is a nice change from the first forty this morning
when we got soaking wet again from the terrible downpour. In Kigorobya
we're looking for the turn-off to Kibiro. We ask a group of men for
directions: "Good afternoon, how are you?" We've learned that
in Africa nobody comes to the point directly, there are a lot of complimentary
phrases that have to be exchanged before you can actually ask what you
want to know.
"Fine, fine, eeeeeeh! How are you sir?"
"Well, tired but still very fine, thank you!" And then straight
to the point: "Is this the road to Kibiro?"
"Mmmmmhh "
This could mean yes, no, I don't know of I don't understand you. An
answer we receive daily at apparent simple questions. Difficult.
The next question almost makes us forget what we were asking: "How
is life?"
"Oh, well, life is very good here in Uganda; we like your country
very much. And how is your life?"
"You mean what I say?"
Peter loves cryptograms, but after cycling 75 kilometres over very rough
and steep roads his brains can't handle these twists any more and he
friendly thanks the men: "Thanks for the conversation, have a nice
day!"
"Mmmmmhh "