Crime does pay!

The day after our Zambian/Victorian trip we’re back for a day at our familiar place in Kasane, Botswana: the campsite of Thebe River Safaris.
We think we can arrange a permit for the thoroughfare to Namibia through Chobe National Park, but boy, are we wrong! At the office of the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, about ten kilometre from the campsite, we sit at Mrs. Neo-Mahupeleng’s desk, begging for the permit. She says she’ll try everything within her powers with her superior, but that no cyclist ever has gotten permission to cycle through the park, even though it’s a public road. Hitch-hiking on a car, bus or truck: yes. Cycling: never, it’s too dangerous. During the telephone call with her boss it becomes clear to us that it’s to no avail: it’s not going to happen. Even our saying that we’ve cycled through over ten wild parks in Africa already has no effect. The Botswana government is unbendable and will accept no responsibility for cyclists that are about to be devoured by lions. It’s even prohibited to leave your car on this 54 kilometre stretch of road. We understand their point of view, but are still very disappointed. We do like cycling in real nature and accept the risks that come with it; with a loud beating heart.
To reach Namibia we have to cross the park one way or another; it’s the only road leading to Ngoma, the borderpost. Louis, one of the owners of Thebe River Safaris, is convinced that we will get a lift at the gate of the park, although it might take a while.

The next morning at half past seven we’re cycling and just before eight o’clock we approach Chobe National Park. The closer we get, the more difficult it gets to accept that soon we’ll be sitting in a truck or bus. On our left we see the guard post of the park official, who, no doubt, will come out any second now. There are no barriers across the road; slowly we cycle to the entrance. We look into the guard post, but see nobody inside. A bit further we hear human voices in one of the adjacent buildings belonging to the park staff, but there is nobody to be seen as well. A warm, feverish feeling comes over us, and without a word both of us slowly start pedalling again. We don’t look back, make as little noise as possible and cycle faster and faster away from the entrance. Into the park!

After the first curve we’re out of sight, we’re still not shouted at, followed or shot at. Yippee! We’re cycling!
In front of us is 54 kilometres of tar road through one of the most beautiful safari-parks completely filled with wild animals. What an excitement and what a pleasure!
“ Do you actually dare to do this, cycling through Chobe?” Peter asks me.
“ Oh, why not. In all those other parks the animals didn’t want to eat us.”

We do feel guilty though, towards Mrs. Neo-Mahupeleng and the Department of Wildlife and National Parks. They have been so helpful and friendly, is this the way to repay their kindness? We can’t help ourselves, we are cyclists and continue cycling.
Our crime gets rewarded pretty soon: two warthogs on the road run into the bushes at our soundless approach. One minute later we have to stop, because a herd of elephant, that demands right of way, crosses the road. Half a dozen kudu and a steenbok don’t like bicycles at all, but watch us fro a distance with curiosity. A group of baboons jealously admires our bicycles and two solitaire elephant bulls happily continue stripping trees and shrubs of their bark. A bunch of vultures, looking like fat turkeys, high in a tree hope for a predator, while staring at our muscular legs. Again two herd of elephant with young cross the road, we wait at an appropriate distance. In the last kilometres we’re surrounded by herds of zebra, that snort, kick and full of energy greet the newborn day.

Then we arrive, still alive, at the other side of the park, at the exit. The eyes of the park officer almost shoot out of their sockets when he sees us coming. With a delirious feeling of happiness we receive his reprimand.

It must be wonderful to be able to daily commit a crime like this.