Chobe: the epicentre of African nature

Coming from centuries old Europe with its rich history, where politics and infrastructure are the result of long term developments, the encounter with the young Africa poses a confrontation every time again. Names that sound old and familiar to our generation turn out to be founded during our lifetime. So does Botswana exist for a mere 38 years and is Namibia – the youngest country on the continent – only fifteen years old. In the meanwhile other African countries are still struggling to undo themselves of their colonised past. The boundaries of the famous Chobe National Park, with the largest population of elephant anywhere in the world, were drawn in 1966. The hamlet of Kasane, which consisted of three farming families, came to lie inside the park and had to be moved. Slowly afterwards tourist activities were developed and the last years Kasane began to grow. Two grandsons on one of the replaced families, Jannie and Louis van Wyk, are the owners of Thebe River Safaris, one of the safari companies in Kasane.

We pitch our tent on their bush campsite. The resident monkeys go from branch to branch and tree to tree, looking for eatables the campers leave unattended. One small mistake and our forefather’s wrath is merciless.

Exactly two years ago we went on our first real safari, in the Masai Mara in Kenya (see: Kenya: On safari with the Masai). It was an unforgettable experience. Now, two years later and exactly on Peter’s 45th birthday, we join Thebe River Safaris for a number of game drives and river cruises. Yesterday, May 30, we received the promised free entrance permit from the Department of Wildlife and National Parks, in exchange for a story on our website and exposure in travel magazines in the Netherlands.

During the first game drive we are happily surprised by all the wildlife we get to see in three hours time. Our senses are overloaded by the many elephants, hippos, buffalos, baboons, impala, crocodiles and dozens of different kind of birds that allow us a peek in their daily lives from a very short distance. Our guide, Gordon, fortunately takes his time to show and explain everything there is. He manages to track two kinds of antelope we never saw before: puku and red lechwe, comparable in size with impala, but even reddish brown in colour and a bit sturdier. Chobe National Park is the only place south of the Zambezi where the rare puku can be seen.
Heartbreaking are the attempts of a baby elephant to revive its dead mother. With its short legs and trunk he tries to lift her heavy body off the ground, but has to give up after a few minutes. A couple of female elephants are taking care of the youngster, while a pair of lioness at a short distance waits for a chance to catch the young between their teeth. Nature is fair, but very hard.

At lunchtime we flow on the Chobe-river on the large flat bottom boat of Thebe River Safaris and are completely overwhelmed by the view from this side on Africa’s nature, and by the thousands of birds in and around the water. The animals are quite used to the boats floating by, so most of them continue their daily life as if nothing is the matter. A crocodile, at a single metre distance, remains stoically in the warming sun, with his oblong shaped mouth full of sharp teeth wide open. A two metre long monitor lizard is more cautious and quickly disappears when we near him.
Naive and unknowing we left the Netherlands three years ago, never expecting to become semi-amateur birders. The boring image of the birder has to go completely overboard: it’s one of the most exciting pass times one can imagine, but only in Africa! When the boat slowly approaches a steep mud bank covered with tiny holes of the white-fronted bee-eater, our hearts start beating faster. Dozens of bright-green specimen with red-white throats, white heads and blue underparts fly to and fro, catch insects, crawl into their holes and look at us in surprise. A fantastic spectacle, we could stay here for hours.
That night it’s hard to fall asleep, hindered by all the impressing images on our retina.

Thebe River Safaris is the only organisation in Kasane that aims at affordable accommodation, in combination with good quality and service. In the second half of 2005 they will build new accommodation especially for backpackers, with dormitories, rooms and communal kitchen. Furthermore they invest in self-catering accommodation and standing, luxury tents that can be rented. One of the first reasonably priced exceptions in Botswana, at an unexpected location.

On our second safari day we find ourselves in the middle of a National Geographic documentary again. The very early and cold sunrise game drive with Koos starts at six a.m.; the marabou storks, waterbuck, bushbuck and rows of elephant that cross the river to Sududu-island make the day a success before it properly started. Without worry about their safety kudu start at us, and we stare back at them in awe. Nature is phenomenal and outdoes humans a thousand times we realise, especially after hearing the next story from our guide. Kudu love to eat the leaves of acacia trees, but of course those trees prefer not to be eaten. Once the kudu starts grazing the acacia increases the bitter tannin level in its leaves, which makes it unpalatable to the grazer. At the same time it emits a gaseous windborne warning to its immediate neighbours, which then increase their tannin levels as well, to be preserved from the kudu.
We take another look at the kudu and the acacia with more respect than ever and continue our safari.

The fourth safari in two days, late afternoon the same day, is almost too much for us. The boat, with Posta and Tango as experienced and enthusiastic guides, takes us for a sunset cruise. The most special features of Chobe National Park are the thousands of elephant and the river that takes care of the daily water need of the wildlife here. At a few metres distance we observe thirsty elephants indulging themselves in the water, after a long hot day. Others arrived here before, they pull grass and reeds out of the shallow water of the island, thrash it around to get rid of the sand and enjoy their vegetarian supper.
We pass a dead elephant in the water, probably victim of the natural anthrax that occurs here. The crocodiles feast themselves on the body: via the soft parts of the deceased (anus and trunk) they devour the rich protein and fat of the jumbo. Every elephant that passes pays respect to the dead family member by standing still, looking and lifting its trunk. Elephants are not only very smart, but also very emotional.

The African sunset, with elephants in the foreground, make this idyllic cruise complete. After Chobe National Park and the safaris of Thebe River Safaris we wonder where else we can go now, without it being boring and predictable. Or should we maybe just stay here forever??

For an unforgettable and affordable safari in Chobe National Park:
Thebe River Safaris
P.O.Box 5
Kasane
Botswana
Tel.: +267 6250314
Website: www.theberiversafaris.co.za
E-mail: thebesafaris@botsnet.bw